The Cartier Tank is a small, flat, rectangular watch, and the strap is a large part of how it looks. A strap that is too thick, too wide at the buckle or too long overwhelms it. A good one follows the case: slim, tapered and in proportion to your wrist.
This guide covers what you choose when ordering a strap for a Tank, whether it is a Must, a Louis, a Française or another model: the lug width, the buckle width, the length, the clasp and the leather.
Not sure which Tank you have? The comparison of Tank models shows how the Louis Cartier, Must, Solo, Américaine and Française differ, with their usual lug widths.
One strap, made to your Tank
The Tank has been made in many versions and sizes. Rather than a fixed strap for each one, the Tank strap is cut to the measurements of your watch: you choose the lug width and the buckle width, and I make the strap to them.
If you are not sure about your model, please write to me before ordering, with the reference from the caseback and a photo of the watch from the back and from the side. I will tell you honestly whether and how a strap can be made for it.
Lug width: 15 to 23 mm
The lug width is the space between the lugs, where the strap sits. On a Tank it depends on the size of the case, so measure your own watch rather than going by the model name. The strap is made in every width from 15 to 23 mm.
Measure between the inside of the lugs, in millimetres, with a ruler or a calliper. The guide to measuring lug width shows how, including how to measure a strap you already own.
Buckle width: 12, 14, 16 or 18 mm
From the lugs, the strap narrows towards the buckle. On a Tank this taper matters more than on most watches: the case is slim, and a strap that stays wide all the way looks heavy. The buckle width is offered in 12, 14, 16 and 18 mm.
If you are keeping your original buckle, measure it on the inside of the frame, where the strap passes through. If you are choosing a new one, a buckle a few millimetres narrower than the lug width gives a clear, elegant taper. The guide to buckle width explains both.
Length and clasp
For a pin buckle, the lengths run from XS (100/60 mm) to XXL (130/90 mm). The first number is the long side with the holes, the second the side with the buckle.
For a folding clasp that opens on both sides, the strap is made with two equal sides: 110/110 or 120/120 mm.
If you are unsure, measure a strap that already fits you. The guide to choosing strap length and the sizing guide explain how.
Buckle and spring bars
- Buckle: steel in silver or gold, or no buckle if you are using your original Cartier buckle or clasp.
- Spring bars: straight spring bars, or quick-release spring bars for changing the strap without a tool (€10 extra).
- Padded: a raised strap with more volume. On a slim Tank, a flat strap keeps the line of the case; padding suits a fuller look.
Choosing the leather
The Tank strap is made in eleven leathers:
- Alligator: matte, shiny and large grain, the classic choice for a Tank. The comparisons of matte and shiny alligator and of large grain and classic alligator explain the differences.
- Other exotic leathers: lizard, stingray and ostrich leg. The fine scales of lizard suit a small case.
- Calf and goat: Satinlys, Granite, Sweet and fully vegetable-tanned calf, and French goat, for a softer, more relaxed look.
The lining is Zermatt leather from Tanneries Haas or goat leather, as you prefer, and the strap is stitched by hand with waxed linen thread from Japan in the colour you choose.
What to send me
The order page covers the usual choices. If anything about your watch is unusual, these details help:
- the reference from the caseback, or the model name and size;
- the lug width, and the buckle width if you keep your own buckle;
- the length of a strap that fits you well, or your wrist circumference;
- the clasp you will use, if it is not a pin buckle.
Making time
Each strap is cut, stitched and finished by hand to your order. It usually leaves the workshop within 2 weeks (up to 5 weeks in busy periods).
If you want something outside the options, I can make it as a bespoke strap.
