Cartier has used the name Santos for several watches, and three of them are the ones people most often ask me to make straps for: the current Santos de Cartier, the Santos 100 and the Santos-Dumont. They look related, with the square case and the visible screws, but each meets the strap in a completely different way. A strap made for one does not fit the others.
This guide explains how to tell them apart, the sizes of each, and what each one needs from a leather strap.
Santos de Cartier: the current model with QuickSwitch
The Santos de Cartier is the model in Cartier's current range, with references beginning WSSA. Its strap or bracelet is changed by hand with the QuickSwitch system: the strap end carries a fitting that locks into the case, with no tool and no visible spring bar.
- Medium: 35.1 x 41.9 mm, 18 mm between the lugs.
- Large: 39.8 x 47.5 mm, 21 mm between the lugs.
A Medium strap does not fit a Large case, or the other way round. The strap is usually worn on the Cartier deployant clasp, in 115/75, 120/80 (the Cartier standard) or 125/85 mm, or as 120/120 mm on a butterfly clasp. The QuickSwitch strap guide explains the system in detail. For the small model, please write to me first.
Santos 100
The Santos 100 is the earlier, larger Santos, with a broad square case and lugs that wrap around the strap end. The strap does not use spring bars or QuickSwitch: it is built on a metal end piece that is fixed to the case with the pins from your watch.
- M: 20 mm between the lugs, 18 mm at the clasp.
- XL: 23 mm between the lugs, 20 mm at the clasp.
The Santos 100 is worn on a butterfly clasp, so the strap is made in two equal halves: 115/115, 120/120 or 125/125 mm. The Santos 100 strap guide covers the end piece and the pins.
Santos-Dumont
The Santos-Dumont is the slim, elegant member of the family, usually worn on leather. Its case is thinner and its lugs are narrower than on the other two. Approximate case sizes are 27.5 x 38 mm (small), 31.4 x 43.5 mm (large) and 33.9 x 46.6 mm (extra large).
- Small: 15.5 mm at the case, 14 mm at the clasp.
- Large: 17.8 mm at the case, 16 mm at the clasp.
- Extra large: 19 mm at the case, 18 mm at the clasp.
On the back of my Santos-Dumont straps sits a metal end piece, made in the workshop, with a quick-release spring bar through it. It is not QuickSwitch. You can wear the strap on a deployant clasp like the Santos, or as a classic strap with a pin buckle and keepers, in lengths from 105/65 to 125/85 mm.
The models side by side
| Model and size | At the case | At the clasp | How it attaches |
|---|---|---|---|
| Santos de Cartier Medium | 18 mm | – | QuickSwitch |
| Santos de Cartier Large | 21 mm | – | QuickSwitch |
| Santos 100 M | 20 mm | 18 mm | End piece with pins |
| Santos 100 XL | 23 mm | 20 mm | End piece with pins |
| Santos-Dumont Small | 15.5 mm | 14 mm | Spring bar in an end piece |
| Santos-Dumont Large | 17.8 mm | 16 mm | Spring bar in an end piece |
| Santos-Dumont XL | 19 mm | 18 mm | Spring bar in an end piece |
How to tell which Santos you have
- Read the reference on the caseback. WSSA is the current Santos de Cartier.
- Look at how the strap comes off. If it releases by hand, it is QuickSwitch. If you see small pins through the lugs and an end piece, it is a Santos 100. A slim case with a straight strap end is a Santos-Dumont.
- Note the size, from the reference or by measuring the width where the strap meets the case.
Older models, such as the Santos Galbée or vintage Santos, attach differently again. Please send me the reference and a photo of the case from the side and the back before ordering.
Length
Whatever the model, the length depends on your wrist and your clasp. The guide to measuring your wrist helps with a pin buckle; for a deployant or butterfly clasp, send me your wrist circumference with the order and I will set the length.
Ordering
- Strap for the Santos de Cartier (Medium and Large)
- Strap for the Santos 100 (M and XL)
- Strap for the Santos-Dumont (Small, Large and XL)
The Cartier Santos leather strap guide covers leathers, linings and colours for all three.
