A good standard strap and a bespoke strap can look similar in a photograph. The difference is in what each was made for. A standard strap is made to a size: 20 mm wide, medium length. A bespoke strap is made to a watch and a wrist.
Neither is right for everyone. This article sets out the differences plainly, so you can decide which one you need.
What "standard" means
A standard strap is produced in set widths and lengths, usually in batches. You choose the nearest size, the colour and sometimes the buckle. For a watch with ordinary lugs and a wrist of average size, a well-made standard strap fits properly and can be on your watch within days. There is nothing wrong with that.
What "bespoke" means
A bespoke strap does not exist until you order it. It is cut for your watch, in the length you need, in the leather, colour, lining and thread you choose, and for the buckle or clasp you will use. In my workshop, that also means the strap is made by one person from the first cut to the final inspection, and that the specification is confirmed with you before any leather is cut.
The differences, side by side
| Standard strap | Bespoke strap | |
|---|---|---|
| Width at the lugs | Nearest standard width | Cut to your lug width |
| Strap end | Straight | Made for the watch, including special ends and fittings |
| Length | S, M or L | The length you need, including unequal or unusual lengths |
| Buckle end | One standard width | Made for your buckle or deployant clasp |
| Leather and colour | What is in stock | Chosen by you |
| Lining and thread | Fixed | Chosen by you |
| Thickness and padding | Fixed | Set for the watch |
| Waiting time | Days | Weeks (usually 3 to 5 in my workshop) |
| Returns | Usually possible | Limited, because the strap is made for one watch |
Where the difference shows most
Watches without ordinary lugs
Some watches cannot take a standard strap at all. The current Cartier Santos uses QuickSwitch; the Santos-Dumont has a spring bar that works inside its own end piece; the Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 integrates the strap closely with the case. For these, the strap end has to be made for the model.
Wrists that are not average
If standard straps always leave you on the first or last hole, or the buckle sits off-centre, the length is wrong for you. A bespoke strap can have a shorter buckle side and a longer hole side, or the reverse. The guide to choosing strap length explains how to tell.
Original clasps
If you want to keep the original buckle or folding clasp of your watch, the strap has to match its width and its type. A strap made for a pin buckle is built differently from one made for a butterfly clasp.
Details you will notice every day
The colour of the thread, the lining against your skin, whether the strap is flat or gently padded: none of these change whether a strap fits, but they change how the watch feels. On a bespoke strap they are decisions, not defaults.
Where a standard strap is the sensible choice
- You need a strap this week.
- Your watch has ordinary lugs in a common width, and standard lengths fit you.
- You want to try a colour or style before committing to it.
- You want to be able to return it.
I would rather say this clearly than sell someone a bespoke strap they do not need.
The cost of bespoke
A bespoke strap costs more than most standard straps, and takes longer. What you are paying for is time: the hours of cutting, skiving, hand stitching and edge finishing described in how a handmade leather watch strap is made, and the time spent confirming the details with you.
How to decide
Ask three questions. Does my watch take an ordinary strap? Do standard lengths fit my wrist? Do I care about choosing the leather, lining and thread myself? If the answer to the first two is yes and to the third is no, a good standard strap will serve you well. If any answer goes the other way, bespoke is worth the wait.
If you are unsure, tell me which watch you have and what bothers you about your current strap. I will tell you honestly whether a bespoke strap would solve it.
